Thank you for choosing Camdup Racing for your high performance and racing components.
Installation tips for racing and high performance transmissions (automatics). Call 636-282-5700 or email tom@camdupracing.com for more info if needed.
Before installing the transmission:
1) Make sure the transmission cooler is absolutely cleaned, or replaced, and has sufficient flow. -06 or 3/8″ is minimum acceptable size lines. The longer they are the larger they should be. Many race trans have the bypass plugged so that all the cooler flow goes through the cooler. Some racers choose to not run a cooler. This is ok if there is a sufficient sized loop installed, the trans fluid sump temp is monitored and remains within the desired temp range (usually 180-220 F’). All street driven vehicles should use an auxiliary trans oil cooler along with the factory type in the radiator. Camdup Racing can supply these parts for you if needed.
2) Check the engine block dowel pins. The pins are what center the transmission to the crankshaft. Make sure they are in good condition and sufficient length. Especially if there is a mid plate being used. Long dowel pins are inexpensive and should be used whenever possible. Failure to do this will result in a broken trans case as well as other damage. On engines that may have extensive line honing (they will usually require a special timing set) check that the trans is centered to the crankshaft. If it is not, offset dowel pins are available. It is a good idea to lightly grease the pins. If you need new pins Camdup Racing can supply them for you.
3) Install a torque limiter if needed. Basically, when you launch the car the engine and trans want to stay on the starting line while the rear tires try to run the drive shaft straight through all of it. If the engine and trans are not firmly attached (motor plates and mid plates will flex) to the frame a torque limiter must be used. Failure to follow this rule will lead to broken cases and possible crankshaft thrust bearing failure. Camdup Racing can install one in your car, if needed.
4) Inspect the condition of the flex plate and ring gear. Make sure the bolt pattern of the torque converter matches the flex plate. Make sure the holes in the flex plate are large enough to accommodate the fasteners being used. Make sure the flex plate bolts are properly torqued.
5) Inspect the rear of the crankshaft where the pilot of the torque converter goes. Make sure it is clean and lightly lubricated. Make sure there are no unwanted parts in the back of the crank. Such as a pilot bushing or an adapter from a previous torque converter. It is a good idea to test fit the torque converter into the back of the crank before installing the trans. It should fit freely but not too loosely. It needs to be able to float in and out as the flex plate flexes. At the same time it centers the torque converter and keeps the hub centered in the pump. Misalignment here causes premature pump and/or torque converter hub failure.
6) Note and record any SFI numbers and dates in your log book. Mainly there will be three. Flex plate, flex plate shield, and transmission shield. These are needed for tech inspections. Crawling under the car in the tech inspection lanes is not fun.
7) Please do not reuse a torque converter that has come out of a failed unit unless it has been refurbished by a reputable builder or the converter’s original manufacturer. The fluid in the old converter will be contaminated with debris that will cause premature failure of your new transmission. Camdup Racing can assist you with your torque converter needs.
8 ) It is not necessary to fill the torque converter before you install it to the trans. Unless you like making a big mess. The pump fills the converter 1st. So just make sure the sump is full before you start the engine and be ready to top it off once it is going. If your transmission has a removable input shaft (ie. powerglide) make sure it is present and properly installed into the transmission. Make sure there is some lube on the converter hub (ATF works fine). Try to center the converter and gently install it into the pump. If you are not careful you can damage the seal. While supporting the weight of the converter by the pilot gently rotate and “jiggle” the converter until it is fully indexed. It has to mate to the stator splines, turbine splines and the pump gears before it is fully installed. A good rule of thumb is about 1″ below the front edge of the transmission bell housing to the mounting pads of the converter. If the transmission is bolted down while the torque converter is not yet fully installed pump and/or torque converter hub damage is likely. Before you tighten the transmission check to see that you can spin the torque converter.
9) Make sure you have the correct shifter linkage components. Listen up! This is very important. The lever and cable bracket on the transmission must match the shifter being used in the car. Often the extra parts that came with the shifter get lost or misplaced, etc. If you are not sure or you know it’s not right get the right parts. Camdup Racing can supply you with the correct parts. It is best to install the lever and bracket before installing the trans. Correct any obstructions such as may be caused by required transmission shields, custom pans, etc.
10) On trans brake units. You may want to install a quick disconnect for the solenoid. A simple two wire trailer harness plug is inexpensive. Camdup Racing recommends soldering and heat shrinking the wire connections. Race cars produce a tremendous amount of vibrations and loose wire splices are no fun. Especially on race day.
11) Installing the dipstick and tube is easier now than after the trans is in, usually. Flexible, firewall mounted tubes and sticks are very racer friendly and look great also. Camdup Racing can supply these parts if needed.
Installing the transmission:
1) Please remember safety 1st. Safety glasses. Vehicle safely supported. Have a helper whenever possible. Use a transmission jack, etc. Camdup Racing can properly install your transmission if needed.
2) Make sure you have the proper hardware ready. Use high quality fasteners minimum grade 5. The transmission bolts should thread into the block about 3/4″. Some special bell housings and cases require special bolts in certain locations. So pay attention and use the correct fasteners in the correct locations. A good example of this would be the JW Ultra Bell.
3) Carefully install the transmission and torque converter assembly to the engine making sure that the transmission is properly mated to the dowel pins. Do not “pull it down” with the bolts. It should slide up to the block with a small amount of effort. If it is too difficult you should stop and find out why. Once the trans is up to the block make sure you can spin the torque converter by hand. If it will not, stop and find out why. If everything looks good torque the fasteners to specification.
4) Check for the proper amount of converter pull out. This is the air gap between the flex plate and the converter while it is fully installed into the transmission. The proper distance is 1/8 to 3/16″. If it is greater than that use shims to get it into specification. Try to use high quality shims that are precision ground if possible. We don’t want to cock the converter with odd shaped shims. If a lot of shimming is needed check to make sure that the converter matches the application. And make sure the pilot reaches the crankshaft. If everything looks good torque the fasteners to specification. It is a good idea to use loctite on the torque converter bolts.
5) Install the transmission cross member and the transmission mount. Please pay attention to the transmission mount bolts and threads in the transmission. There are many different types of fasteners used over the years. Even on like units there may be 2 or 3 different thread types. Make sure you have the correct fasteners for the mount. Otherwise you may damage the extension housing and require thread repairs or replacement. When using an Energy Suspension mount do not discard the “shim”. It is required to be used with the mount. The instructions show the proper installation of the “shim”. Camdup Racing can supply you with cross members (bolt in or custom made) and transmission mounts if needed.
6) If the car has slicks on it then a drive shaft safety loop is required. They are a good idea on any car making enough power to break a u-joint, etc. They need to be mounted within 6″ of the front u-joint. Camdup Racing can fabricate a custom loop on your car or supply you with a bolt in.
7) Put some oil on the hose end fittings. Do not over torque the fittings. Jiffy-tite makes a nice set of quick disconnect cooler lines. Camdup Racing can supply these for you if needed.
8 ) Hook up the shift cable to the bracket. Have an assistant help you to make sure the cable is properly adjusted. Once the cable is properly adjusted connect it to the shift lever on the transmission. The cable is properly adjusted when the stud moves freely in and out of the lever in every quadrant. If it won’t do that check to make sure the cable is not worn or damaged. If ok then double check to make sure you have the correct parts installed. If you are not sure Camdup Racing can help you.
9) If your trans has a roller bearing extension housing you must use a hardened slip yoke. Camdup Racing can supply you with the necessary components or a complete custom shaft. Install the drive shaft. Torque the fasteners to specification. Make sure the u-joint fits the pinion flange properly. Check to see if the rear of the vehicles weight is supported by the axle. If not, do that at this time so that we can verify the proper length of the drive shaft. There needs to be about 1 to 1 1/4″ of the yoke showing when using a non-booted seal. Transmissions that use a booted seal will typically show about 3/8 to ½” of yoke. Generally speaking. When the shaft is unbolted from the pinion flange you should be able to slide it into the trans about 1″ before it bottoms out. If it will not slide in at all inspect for twisted splines on the shaft or in the yoke. This needs to be fixed before the job can be finished. Ignoring this will cause premature wear or failure.
10) Wire up the trans brake solenoid using 14 gauge wire. Make sure to run the ground to the frame, so there is a minimal voltage drop. Most trans brake solenoids use a lot of current. So, paying attention to the details is important.
11) Lower the vehicle to the ground. Block the wheels. Place trans into park. Make sure the neutral safety switch functions at this time. If not, correct it at this time.
12) Fill the trans with enough fluid to fill the pan. Use a high quality transmission fluid. Synthetics like Royal Purple are an excellent choice. Usually 4 quarts is a good starting point. Camdup Racing can supply you with fluid if needed.
13) Start the engine and look under the car (if it is leaking shut it off and find out why).
14) Continue filling the transmission until the fluid reaches the add line on the stick. Look under the car one more time to make sure we have no leaks. Shut off the car.
15) Raise the vehicle off the ground and safely support it. Restart the car. Operate the transmission through the gears. Do not accelerate to high speeds. It is not necessary and could be dangerous. A racing transmission is full manual. Simply moving the lever fills the circuits with fluid. You may not “feel” the shifts while on the jack stands. Note: some trans brake units require the use of the brake function to properly engage reverse. Refer to the instructions that come with the unit.
16) Find a safe place to test the vehicle. The best place is obviously the racetrack. For trans brake units it is important to stage the car with the engine rpm at least 1000 or more. This ensures that there is sufficient pump pressure and volume to set the brake properly. Take off at a modest rate of acceleration and shift up through the gears like normal. Slow down and shift back down to low. Come to a complete stop.. Make sure the trans brake works as expected. If not, contact Camdup Racing for assistance.
17) On all three speed units please start burnouts in 2nd gear then shift to high. Starting off burnouts in 1st and then shifting into 2nd is extremely brutal on the internal parts. This can lead to premature wear or failure of the trans. Also never neutral a 3 speed trans while moving fast through the shut down area. This can lead to a catastrophic explosion. If you require a clean neutral at the end of the run there are valve bodies available that can do that. Always pay attention to the specific instructions that come with the valve bodies being used.
18) If using a transmission temperature gage (recommended) pay attention to the temperature at the start and the end of the run. Large fluctuations may indicate a problem. Trans fluid temperature should be measured at the sump for best results. It can be measured in the cooler circuit but be advised it will climb dramatically during the run. Paying attention to the trans temp will also help in predicting et’s. and dialing in for the win. Camdup Racing can supply you with these parts if needed.